Saturday, 12 March 2011

The Crown at Whitebrook

Mid March and Scott, Danny and I headed up the Wye Valley, through dense woodland of winter-bare trees with the hint of bursting buds in a purple haze of promise. Past Tintern and then left, up a valley of picturesque houses and babbling brooks to find The Crown, an old coaching inn way off the beaten track run by chef James Sommerin, a Masterchef finalist with a Michelin star. Our friends Chris and Martha were already there, and we added our battered old Zaphira car next to their Astra followed by my daughter Amy's Corsa - a trio of faded old Vauxhalls amongst the Jags and Porches. The staff and the room was welcoming - especially the cup of tea and hot welsh cake.

We chose the nine-course taster menu. With our aperitif we were presented with an appetiser on a slate - a freshly baked cheese choux pastry, a savoury lollipop, a strange ceramic spoon of tomato tapioca and some crispy snacks.  We marvelled at the price of some of the wine and ordered various glasses and were shown to my favourite shaped table... round with serviettes on little wooden platters!

I won't bore you with the details, but I think this was the best meal that I have ever had. Highlights were the amuse bouche where amongst a creamy langoustine mousse, tiny crisp individual cells of lime exploded in the mouth as you bit them; a strongly flavoured roast chicken crunched inside pasta with egg and wild mushroom; tasty barbecued mackerel cuddled up to beetroot and horseradish; a tiny square of delicious soft pork belly with a sliver of crackling nestled beside a piece of turbot, tiny slices of venison were served on a cushion of pureed carrot with a wonderful jus, an entertaining waitor described and served two wonderful slates of soft and hard Welsh and English cheeses before desserts - one of which contained a delicious sharp blackcurrent sorbet, another chocolate together with cinnamon and fig. The wonderfully curvy wooden platter made a reappearance with the final dessert to round off the meal with a smile. Danny and Amy went home and the remaining four of us were happy to go upstairs to our comfortable beds.

I loved the way Amy, who is pregnant, was cared for, with separate dishes where things were not suitable, and the meat and eggs never undercooked. The wine was fabulous and company was excellent. Chris and Danny are both professional cooks and were excited by each course and we all took pleasure in discussing the flavours and the artistic presentation which was beautiful. We had a great night with lots of conversation and fun. The breakfast was a treat, with freshly baked raspberry and white chocolate muffins alongside creamy porridge. I had a full English whilst Scott and Martha had french toast with maple syrup and Chris had smoked salmon. We rounded it off with toast and unlimited coffee and tea. As we paid the bill, we gulped a bit at the expense, but it was definitely good value and much cheaper than some of the other restaurants I plan to visit this year. And I want to go back to The Crown again... please...

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